How to: Rear Drum to Rear Disks Brakes Swap
Listing all the possible components that could or could not work with your specific chassis
would be quite extensive. This writeup is here to merely show the general procedure of
physically swapping your rear drum brakes for rear disk brakes. Before buying parts and
attempting the swap, please confirm that the rear disk brakes will work with your chassis.
The Pile of parts the day i got em
9.4" Rear disk brake swap from a GSR all torn apart
It is important to remove each component and clean everything up. Verify that all the boots
and seals are good in the calipers and brackets and that the wheel bearings are good.
Removing the old trailing arms
Unbolt the Ebrake support bracket. Loosen the ebrake adjusting nut enough so that you can
remove the ebrake cables from the equalizer bar.
Unbolt the ebrake cable from the chassis. There are two brackets bolted to the car on each
ebrake cable. just follow allong the cable until you find each of the two brackets. On
the passenger side it is beneficial to unbolt half of the gas tank plastic guard(the
large plastic tub) so that you can pull it down out of the way.
Now unbolt the rear brake hardline from the trailing arm softline. To avoid risking rounding
the fitting, take a wire brush and brush up the threads as clean as possible and then
thoroughly wash down the threads with wd-40.
The trailing arm is bolted in place at the camber arm, the LCA, two bolts into the frame, and the
you may want to support the trailing arm on a jack as you finish taking out all the bolts. you can
now take the trailing arms out
Both Haynes and Helms state the brake bleeding order for 96-00 civic as:
1. Right Rear
2. Left Front
3. Left Rear
4. Right Front
Congrats you have successfully swapped your rear drum brakes for 9.4" rear disk brakes. :-)